Queen Mary’s Diamond Lozenge Bandeau is a stunning Art Deco-style tiara crafted with geometric diamond patterns. Last worn publicly by Princess Margaret, this unique bandeau disappeared from sight after her passing and was last seen in a 1965 portrait of her.
Since then, it has remained out of the public eye, adding to the mystery surrounding its current whereabouts and whether it might someday reappear in the royal collection.
Until now, that is! During celebrations in the Sultanate of Pahang for the wedding of Prince Muhammad of Pahang, Tengku Arif Bendahara, royal enthusiast Saad Salman (known as The Royal Watcher on X) caught sight of a familiar sparkle – a tiara he suspected to be the long-lost Diamond Lozenge Bandeau. After consulting with HM Queen Azizah of Pahang, they concluded that this was indeed the elusive piece, whose whereabouts had been a mystery for decades.
Leading diamond experts at UK retailer Steven Stone have closely examined the headpiece, uncovering all its fascinating details – from its intricate design and the royals who have worn it to its impressive estimated value.
Design & Origin
The Diamond Lozenge Bandeau is an exquisite piece featuring intricate diamond “lozenges” set within elegant diamond and pearl motifs, framed by rows of diamonds and seed pearls along the base and top. While its exact origin remains unknown, faint maker’s marks suggest it was crafted by Cartier, likely dating back to the early 1910s.
Queen Mary likely commissioned the Diamond Lozenge Bandeau shortly before or during the First World War. However, it made its most memorable appearance in 1935, adorned with pearls—likely borrowed from her iconic Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara or the Lover’s Knot Tiara—when she wore it to the Royal Film Premiere of ‘The Ghost Goes West’ at Leicester Square Theatre in London. She also wore it topped with pearls for a Gala Performance by the Comédie Française at London’s Savoy Hotel in 1939.
Princess Margaret
In 1948, a newly turned 18-year-old Princess Margaret made a stunning debut by wearing Queen Mary’s Diamond Lozenge Bandeau as her first tiara. She donned the exquisite piece for a Gala ‘Sports Fantasy’ showcase at the Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam, held in honor of the Inauguration of Queen Juliana of The Netherlands.
Thought to have been an 18th birthday gift from Queen Mary, Princess Margaret also showcased the tiara during the Dutch State Visit to Britain in 1950, as well as at the Danish State Visit to Britain in 1951. Princess Margaret wore the tiara on several rare occasions into the 1960s.
The public absence of the tiara led many to speculate that it resided in the British Royal Vaults. However, it’s plausible that Princess Margaret discreetly sold it around the same time that Queen Mary’s Amethyst Tiara was sold in the late 1970s or early 1980s.
“The Diamond Lozenge Bandeau is an exquisite piece featuring intricate diamond ‘lozenges’ set within elegant diamond and pearl motifs. Likely commissioned by Queen Mary in the early 1910s, it made appearances in the 1930s and was worn by Princess Margaret as her first tiara in 1948.
The unique bandeau vanished from public view following Princess Margaret’s passing, with its last known appearance in a 1965 portrait of her. However, thanks to royal enthusiast Saad Salman and HM Queen Azizah of Pahang, this captivating piece is now lost no more.
While placing a price on such a historic and exquisite piece is nearly impossible, after a careful examination of the tiara, I would estimate its value to be approximately $5 million.”
maxwell stone, creative director, steven stone
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